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Focke Wulf 190A   Lenny Smith's Building Review


Lenny Smith and his beautiful FW-190A.  Lenny Has done an extensive job of documenting his building of this bird, and has been nice enough to offer the photos, documentation, and some commentary about his Focke-Wulf both on the bench and in the air.  It's a rare treat!  Save this page and drop in regularly as we proceed with posting Lenny's FW-190A building documentary. 


I've started my Jack Devine FW-190 model and I'm making a photo documentation of the job.  I plan to build as light as possible so I can use a Zenoah G-38.  I'm shooting for a ready-to-fly-weight of about 18 to 20 pounds.  That should fly well on the G-38.  Above you'll se the tailfeathers with leading and trailing edges glued on.

These are the inboard wing panels ready to be sheeted.

These tailfeathers are shown as they would look built to stock.

Lenny's tailfeathers cap-stripped with counterbalances added.

Wings sheeted the old fashioned way...

Sanding in the exhaust outlets to fit the cowl to the fuse.

The fuse has been sheeted on one side.

The wing has the leading edge, aileron bay capped, and first tip cap in place.

Above: Fuse is fully sheeted on outside and 3 of 4 sides are done on inside.   
Right: Wing is together, servo wiring is run, flap wells cut out and lined, wing tips are capped and shaped, flap servo pockets are cut, 3/8 balsa flap leading edge is installed.

At this point I had about 20 hours in on this model.

The inside of the fuse sheeted, before tri-stock or firewalls were placed.
There are a great number of modelers who back away from working with foam wings because they have never installed a set of retracts in one.  This is not the only way to do this, there are many methods.  I will go through the steps for the method I used.  I will spar the wing and tie the gear plates into the main spar.

Start by placing the gear on the wing with the wheel. In this case,  I have a set of scale gear with gear doors already attached. I refer to my 3 views and try to place my retracts in a location as close as possible to scale where I still have enough depth for the gear mechanism.

I marked a STRAIGHT reference line just behind the wheel opening.

Next I cut out 2 gear plates that will go between the leading edge and the main spar, in this case, 4in x 5in with an angle cut on the leading edge.

Then I cut out a 3/16in wide slot and popped out the balsa.

Above:  Make the spar from 1/8 aircraft ply, the gear plates are 1/4 aircraft ply. The spar extends about 2 inches past the gear plates.
Right: Now use an old hacksaw blade heated with a torch and melt out a slot in the foam all the way to the top sheeting. Go slow, and keep a scrap piece of 1/8 ply handy to check for clearance. It should fit , but not flop around, ideally it should feel just snug. I let it stick up about 1/8in when installed( make yours a little bigger). Now place the gear plates against the spar and mark lines from spar to leading edge + 1/8in for ribs.

Pop out the balsa with a flat screwdriver or similar tool.  Use the heated hacksaw blade to slot out for the false ribs.  Make 2 false ribs from 1/8th inch aircraft ply.  Use the first pair as templates to make a pair for the other side.  

Test fit all the parts for a snug fit.

It should all look like this now test fitted together.
Click here to go to Page 2 of Lenny's FW-190A building review.
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