Notch out the ribs as required, and outline where
you are going to need to remove foam to allow room for gear.
Now, let's get out the really high-tech
tools. A coat hanger bent into a 2.5-inch square and held in a
pair of vice grips. Heat this with a propane torch and use it to
remove a small amount at a time to fit.
Here I removed a channel for the mechanism in the
middle of the rib, cutting in almost all the way to the top
sheeting. I set the gear in place and get an idea of how deep and
what angle to cut out for the gear plate. Remove a little at a
time, take it slow and carefully.
Test fit with gear closed, gear open.
Eyeball from the front and sides. You want your axle to be under
the leading edge of the wing. Time spent doing this is time well
Fit the gear and look again to make sure the gear
look right. Shimming can be done later, but you really want to get
it as close as possible now. If you happen to cut out too much
foam and the plate sits too low, you can use balsa plates for shims
now. NOW, get out the Elmer's Ultimate Glue, it's a polyurethane
glue (like Gorilla glue).
After you wet all the wood parts with an atomizer,
apply the Ultimate Glue to all the parts you have prepared and
fitted. The only thing that will move as this glue kicks off are
the gear-plates. I usually tack them with a little CA in a few
spots. Now, be prepared to baby-sit this assembly for about an
hour while it fizzes up all over. Grab a bunch of balsa scraps and
keep wiping it off as it fizzes up. It's extremely hard and tough
once it dries, so you want to take care of it as it shows up, while it
can still be removed easily.
I fitted the wing to the fuse and squared
up. Mine had to go all the way to the back of the saddle to
achieve 0 degrees incidence. The stab and vertical are squared up
and attached. I added a 1/2-inch spacer block to the front of the
saddle to butt against the leading edge of the wing,
The flaps are1/8" lite-ply with a 3/8" x
3/8' balsa leading edge glued on top, with 3/32" balsa ribs.