Focke Wulf 190A   Lenny Smith's Building Review - Page 2


Notch out the ribs as required, and outline where you are going to need to remove foam to allow room for gear.

Now, let's get out the really high-tech tools.  A coat hanger bent into a 2.5-inch square and held in a pair of vice grips.  Heat this with a propane torch and use it to remove a small amount at a time to fit.

Here I removed a channel for the mechanism in the middle of the rib, cutting in almost all the way to the top sheeting.  I set the gear in place and get an idea of how deep and what angle to cut out for the gear plate.  Remove a little at a time, take it slow and carefully.

Test fit with gear closed, gear open.  Eyeball from the front and sides.  You want your axle to be under the leading edge of the wing.  Time spent doing this is time well spent.

Fit the gear and look again to make sure the gear look right.  Shimming can be done later, but you really want to get it as close as possible now.  If you happen to cut out too much foam and the plate sits too low, you can use balsa plates for shims now.  NOW, get out the Elmer's Ultimate Glue, it's a polyurethane glue (like Gorilla glue).

After you wet all the wood parts with an atomizer, apply the Ultimate Glue to all the parts you have prepared and fitted.  The only thing that will move as this glue kicks off are the gear-plates.  I usually tack them with a little CA in a few spots.  Now, be prepared to baby-sit this assembly for about an hour while it fizzes up all over.  Grab a bunch of balsa scraps and keep wiping it off as it fizzes up.  It's extremely hard and tough once it dries, so you want to take care of it as it shows up, while it can still be removed easily.

I fitted the wing to the fuse and squared up.  Mine had to go all the way to the back of the saddle to achieve 0 degrees incidence.  The stab and vertical are squared up and attached.  I added a 1/2-inch spacer block to the front of the saddle to butt against the leading edge of the wing,

The flaps are1/8" lite-ply with a 3/8" x 3/8' balsa leading edge glued on top, with 3/32" balsa ribs.

After looking around, I finally decided on this as my basic paint scheme.

The flight control surfaces have been glassed.  The red is from my fast-hardener.  You can put them in the sun for a while and they go back to a yellow.
Keep dropping in and checking out Lenny's Focke-Wulf 190A review as we continue to post more of it here!
Click on the Focke-Wulf button below to return to the Focke-Wulf page

Foam Building Techniques
using Jack Devine's
Foam Bond Cement
Links to
other R/C Sites!

About Us here at Jack Devine Models
Joining Balsa Sheets
Building Techniques

Take me to the Order Page!

Most Commonly asked Questions and Building Tips

Come chat in the chatroom!  Click here to go to our chatroom.

Questions for Jack Devine?

Check out these other Jack Devine Models!  
Just Pick, Click, and FLY to their page!




Jack Devine Models
14906 114th Ave. N.E.
Kirkland, WA        98034 - 1031

Business and Information line:  1- 425 - 822 - 8130

Toll-Free Order Line (Not for information): 1- 800- 897- 0717